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new project 4

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new project 4
Started at 11:31am on the 5th October, 2017 by arty70
arty70 Subject: new project 4
The restoration of my 1960 350 Bullet is coming to completion however as normal with most of my projects ( 3rd bike since retirement ) there is always a little snag near the end. I purchased the bike in December 2016 and prior to my ownership had been half converted into a trials bike and my plan was to turn it back to a standard bike , thanks to our hosts parts manual, stores and e-bay I have almost achieved my goal.In January we managed to get the bike to start using easy start, it ran with no rattles so it was decided to leave the engine and box and concentrate on the running gear, the frame and running gear was stripped, blasted and repainted, the forks were stripped and internal springs fitted, wheels stripped , powder coated and rebuilt with new shoes, bearings and new tyres,new ( old ) mudguards sourced, persuaded to fit and painted. Rewiring commenced and all electricals work in a 6 volt kind of way. Front wheel no problem rear wheel problem. The rear wheel was assembled with the washers and spacers that came with the wheel in the same order. First problem was the gap between the wheel and the swinging arm , measured at about 0.25 of a inch. Checked parts manual big collar needed , so made one on lathe , result more accurate alignment, tightened the part 16 spindle only for the speedo drive to lock against the wheel and turn with the wheel. in further strip down the speedo drive was missing something ( or I was )which later I found to be part 7 on the speedo drive. My next job is to either to make or buy the stepped bush, but the the parts list indicates that the stepped bush part 7 passes through the felt oil seal and rests on the wheel bearing as well as passing through the speedo drive and locking the outer of the speedo drive to the wheel distance collar . Can any one confirm this or tell me where I am going wrong Thanks
Posted: 11:31am 5th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
Art, you are correct, the "bush" (I'd call it a spacer,) sits between the inner face of the speedo drive case and the outer race of the wheel bearing. It is also recessed on the inner (bearing side) to accommodate a felt washer. I usually replace wheel bearings with sealed ones which means the felt washer is no longer needed but then belt and braces, I usually leave the felt seal in there anyway!

REgards, Mark
Posted: 12:46pm 5th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
I just looked at the Parts Book for your bike, the illustration of the spacer on the speedo page is wrong, in reality it is more of a top hat shape which I think you'll understand from my previous post. The spacer does not pass through the speedo drive, the drive is sandwiched between the spacer and the outer spindle to swing-arm spacer. I can send you a pic if you like?

REgards, Mark
Posted: 12:51pm 5th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Thanks Mark a illustration would be great
Posted: 04:23pm 5th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
Give me a while to take a pic and I'll upload it to this message, hopefully tomorrow.

REgards, Mark
Posted: 04:39pm 5th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
IMG 0396 REgards, Mark
Posted: 08:04pm 5th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Thanks Mark ,just what I need off to the lathe in the morning ,one final question what's the overall length I should be aiming for the plan is to measure the depth with vernier before but a rough length would be a guide . Again thanks for your advise. When I get my head around loading pictures ( or find a 12 year old kid to help) I will load some before and after shots of the project.
Posted: 08:47pm 5th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
Art, the length will be specific to that model, I have come across at least 4 different ones. It is related to the length of the outer spacer obviously. In fact, the 2 spacers in the picture are different lengths although you can't see it. I suggest you assemble the rear wheel in the swing arm with all the components fitted except the speedo drive itself, measure the gap and deduct the thickness of the speedo drive casing. Bear in mind that the assembly is usually a tight fit into the axle plates and you should be about right. The finished length will be in 16ths of an inch, I do know that! What you should also be able to see in the photo is the groove for the felt seal. Good luck,
Posted: 10:36pm 5th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Thanks to the advice will report back after the lathe work.
Posted: 11:07pm 5th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Hi Mark, Back after a few hours lathe work , still not quite fixed, followed your advise measured the gap made bush,assembled it up, fitted wheel distance collar ( part 27) and two washers, nice snug fit, bolted up wheel spindle spedo drive stopped in place, but last half turn to fully tighten spindle locks the back wheel solid half a turn back wheel is free. The spindle looks to be cycle thread so full turn is about 1/ 26th of a inch ,about 40 thou locks the wheel. I disconnected the chain to make sure that was not the problem . My other thought was to check the brake side to make sure the spacer ( part 38 )was was not stopping the wheel or causing some additional friction. Clutching at straws at the moment
Posted: 04:28pm 6th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
Art, I have measured a spacer and I think I might have the answer. The outer diameter of the portion of the spacer where the felt seal sits is .035" (35 thou') LESS than the inner section. What this means (I think!) is that the spindle tightens the whole assembly through the inner race which seems right when you think about it. If you faced off the widest diameter of the spacer you made on the same plane all the way across it would clamp onto the wheel bearing outer race, locking it just as you describe. Wouldn't it? Over to you!

REgards, Mark
Posted: 06:41pm 6th October, 2017
Alan R Subject: new project 4
Hi Guys------MARK M, yes-- that's correct.........You need the inner portion of the spacer to just stand proud of the outer section so only the inner is compressed against the bearing.....No need to machine a new one, a suitable washer will give the result required..
Posted: 09:14pm 6th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Thanks Guys, Off to my restoration club to turn /modify spacers/ washers will report back later on progress. Art.
Posted: 12:33pm 7th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Thanks Mark back wheel sorted, added shims to speedo end just slight nipping of the wheel when final tightening , the one of the guys suggested tightening the chain side first ( as would be the case for a standard QD wheel) this produced slight binding of rear wheel so we took it to bits and added a thin washer against the existing washer and spacer this did the trick nice free movement of wheel. Speedo drive stops in the correct position when spindle is fully tightened . Last job to tackle is the rear change , I seem to be able just to select first and second gear when turning the rear wheel, I removed the outer case to check operating mechanism and the inner ratchet teeth looked a bit worn, my first though was to as a start, replace the inner and outer ratchets as a pair to see what improvements that makes. I have already stripped and cleaned the clutch but will strip it again if it if not disengaging . Any advice as I am new to these gearboxes?
Posted: 08:33pm 7th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
Good progress! As to gears, ratchet position is vital, with the outer cover off, move the gear lever to one extreme, measure gap between ratchet inner teeth and ratchet outer teeth and do the same at the other extreme. Loosen pillar screws and centralise mechanism. That should do it. If you can't get it to centralise try another inner ratchet plate, they can vary quite a lot in manufacture so selective assembly can help. Don't get too worried if not exactly central, the best test is staying in gear under power, this can be tested with the engine running on the centre stand. Instructions for this are in the manual although they are a bit vague about substitution of parts, I have found this from experience. (I really should be charging for this!)

REgards, Mark
Posted: 09:19pm 7th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Thanks Mark, Gear change now sorted , purchased new inner ratchet ( and gear change spring as the teeth looked worn )and changes gear ok on the ramp, dropped the clutch cover to reset the clutch, to find the clutch basket running out of alignment due to in being just a bit slack. Centre nut was slack and minus a spring washer. This confirms my suspicion that the bike has been well messed about with, prior to my purchase. I then decided to check the gear change side inside the cover, the cheese headed bolts which hold the end cover in place were all hand tight and the stud at the top right was missing the hexagon nut. All nice and tight now with spring washers. Just waiting for a club member to bring in his universal clutch locking tool to tighten up the clutch basket , rebuild clutch test then MOT time . Last question ( honest) should the two clutch rods have a roller bearing between and is the clutch pad with the ball bearing end a good modification?
Posted: 07:24pm 11th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
Ha ha, no problem! Cutting the clutch pushrod in two and adding a bearing is a common modification to stop the long rod bowing and binding inside the mainshaft. Most use a ball bearing but I found a suitable roller is better as there is no point loading which otherwise causes premature wear. Make sure the cut ends of the rod are hardened by heating and quenching. The Hitchcocks clutch pad with radial roller bearing can help but to be honest it's a marginal improvement if everything else is well set up. I have one fitted to my Trials bike on the basis that everything helps when you need fine clutch control but on a road bike I think you'll be fine. The clutch centre nut may not tighten fully with a spring washer, H's do a Nyloc nut for this job or a dab of Loctite will do just as well.

REgards, Mark
Posted: 08:00pm 11th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Hi Mark, When I said last question not quite, but I will come back to that , clutch sorted got nylock nut from hosts and a decompresser cable,fitted nut with special lock washer supplied by club member , made locking tool and added a drop of locktight, rebuilt clutch , working fine case back on and oil topped up. Bit of adjustment with the chain guard all ready for MOT. The compression has been improving so I thought sort out the decompressor, seemed to be simply missing a cable,one came with the bike so a few weeks ago I tried to fit it but the inner seemed to short , fitted the adjustable end then tried to fit the handle bar end to short so left it. When I ordered the locknut for the clutch I ordered the cable listed for the bike but still no joy to short. I could cut the inner down but seems a bit drastic, could always send it back to Mr H . Any advice other than dont be a wimp and just wear heavy boots as some of my mates have said.
Posted: 11:33am 15th October, 2017
Mark M Subject: new project 4
How short? It may be that the decomp lever you have is too large, the ones originally fitted are very small between the nipple recess and the cable abutment. These early levers look more like a trigger than a cut down ball end lever if that helps. A trick that might work is to remove the lever, fit the nipple and then refit the lever. This will only work if the cable is only just too short, obviously! Having said that, (sorry Mr H!) I have found that the cables Hitchcocks sell are very variable in length, for instance, I have a front brake cable at the moment where the inner is so long I have had to use all the adjustment to get it to work at all.

REgards, Mark
Posted: 12:26pm 15th October, 2017
arty70 Subject: new project 4
Good news is the bike has a MOT but only two gears , I have sent the cable back to Mr H outlining the problems, took the bike for MOT on my trailer as 4 gears on the ramp but only 2 on the road .The bike changes alright using a spanner on the neutral selector, one of my so called mates suggested I make a hand change lever!. After an evening reading the gearbox tech notes posted here, the penny dropped the screwdriver slotted bolt at the top right hand corner had no locknut on it strange. The tech notes revealed is the gear operating plunger that the previous owner must have messed about with, will take the cover off again and check this out this is getting like the rear wheel saga. last request oil for gearbox, when I drained the oil weeks ago watery sludge drained out I topped it up with some engine oil to act as a flushing oil, once the gear change is sorted it will be drained and refilled , gear oil, or 00 grade grease ?
Posted: 11:55am 19th October, 2017

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