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Kickstarting

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Kickstarting
Started at 04:06pm on the 15th April, 2018 by Jamesy
Jamesy Subject: Kickstarting
I have electronic ignition fitted to my bullet 350 2003.Should the guide as to tdc on the compression stroke where the ammeter needle deflects to the left still work?
Posted: 04:06pm 15th April, 2018
stinkwheel Subject: Kickstarting
I'm not sure about the ammeter needle but you ought to be able to get it pretty much there on feel alone anyway. Rather than holding the decompressor in and watching the ammeter, push down on the kickstart until you come up to compression THEN use the decompressor to ease it just a fraction further taking it past compression. You shold now be in a position to start it
Posted: 06:41pm 15th April, 2018
Alan R Subject: Kickstarting
Hi Guys-----Hi Jamesy..The "Flick" of the Ammeter needle occurs when the points open and the spark is generated..........However, a full electronic system ( ie NOT the Transistor Assisted Circuit which still makes use of the points ) .. uses a rotating magnet passing a coil of wire to induce an electric current within that coil and so create the spark..........Depending on how sensitive your type is you might get a flicker but it won't be so well defined as the points type....................Also, your single cylinder machine might have the type with TWO coils and TWO magnets ( mainly used for twins OR 4-cyls. )..... In this case if both coils are being used then you might get 2 flicks showing........What's happening here is a system known as the "Wasted Spark" where 1 spark occurs at the Compression stroke and the other at 180 degrees later on the Exhaust stroke........From a mechanical point of view this is better as the two rotating magnets counter-balance each other......The spark happening in the Exhaust does nothing, hence the term "Wasted Spark"..............I have this on my Bullet '65.

Hi Stinkwheel.......yes, what you say is quite true but that's only half the story.......Consider this}----With the piston now just past TDC and about to descend on the Power Stroke we are asking the momentum within the flywheels to carry the whole crankshaft assembly through that Power Stroke...back up through the Exhaust Stroke.....down through the Induction Stroke...back up through the Compression Stroke( with the de-compressor valve now shut) and get the engine started.....That's a BIG ASK for your leg muscles to achieve....The second half of the story is having got the piston over TDC as you described, we now need to get it just past the other TDC and about to descend on the Exhaust stroke........This now Halves the amount of momentum needed before ignition point is reached or if you like it Doubles the amount of energy available to take the piston through the compression stage.......It takes a bit of trial and error but it's worth it in the long run....Good for your bike, good for your leg muscles, maintains your Street Cred. in front of your mates etc.............For a bog standard Bullet running on 6:1 CR it probably doesn't matter but it certainly makes starting easier on a 10:1 pepped-up long stroke beastie !!
Posted: 02:34am 16th April, 2018
Mark B Subject: Kickstarting
My 2000 500 Bullet has Boyer ignition and there is a definite deflection of the ammeter at spark time. However, as Stinkwheel says, just bring it up to compression, then decompress to ease over, and then kick.
Posted: 01:23pm 16th April, 2018
Count Johnny Subject: Kickstarting
Being the owner of a "...pepped-up long stroke beastie..." (and being something of a racing snake at 75kg) I can vouch for Alan's method.
Posted: 01:42pm 16th April, 2018
papasmurf Subject: Kickstarting
Posted: 02:04pm 16th April, 2018
Alan R Subject: Kickstarting
LoL !!----------Reminds me of my steel shoe when Grass Track and Speedway racing ..
Posted: 02:13am 17th April, 2018
Felix Subject: Kickstarting
Having learned on a BSA Victor, I ignore the ammeter on my 2000 and just position the piston through pedal feel. I usually start first try when cold.
Posted: 02:16am 17th April, 2018
Bullet Whisperer Subject: Kickstarting
Since being misinformed just before I reached my 'teens', I have always brought an engine onto compression, then let the kickstart return to the top. Next, as I get some weight on the kickstart and the engine springs over compression, keep going with a fast, hard kick and start the engine. The only machine to be difficult to start in this way to date, was a BSA B50MX - Even twp Panther 650's have started for me like this and one thing I have noticed is there is much less likelihood of an engine kicking back if this method is used.
Posted: 08:58am 17th April, 2018

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