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Clutch movement

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Clutch movement
Started at 12:51pm on the 10th July, 2018 by John R
John R Subject: Clutch movement
In my quest for freedom from clutch drag, I have fitted the the little strengthened supplied by our hosts. However, having removed the primary case, I have noticed that the entire clutch, including the basket and sprocket, moves noticeably outwards when the clutch lever is pulled. Obviously this loses some travel and probably does not do the chain much good! Any suggestions, oh wise ones?
Posted: 12:51pm 10th July, 2018
John R Subject: Clutch movement
350 1989 Bullit I should have said.
Posted: 12:52pm 10th July, 2018
vince Subject: Clutch movement
Hi, Check the nut on the mainshaft at the clutch release end. It is a lefthand thread and can come loose. Also the bearing at that end can become worn and have lateral play. Vince
Posted: 04:34pm 10th July, 2018
Rusky Subject: Clutch movement
John, did the alterations remove the clutch drag?. My 2005 Electra is a real pain in traffic from the drag. Thanks Russ
Posted: 10:56pm 16th July, 2018
Super45 Subject: Clutch movement
Im currenly having a similar issue on my 2000 350 noticed that there was a crack in the outter primary as if something had bashed it from the inside, then noticed an oil leak from the rear primary which I thought was just the seal failing only to find that cracked also! on removing the outer primary I discovered the clutch basket wobbled in all directions but no play outwards when pulled and on closer inspection found the outer 3 bolts were loose and these had gouged a grove in the outer casing ( the cause of the crack ) but the clutch looked to be working fine when the 3 bolts were tighted down so it looks to be the same issue yo0u have so I will have to remove the front plate lock the clutch and tighten the main bolt in the rear of the basket to see if that cured it and if not replace the bearing. on a seperate point I seem to have lost 1st and second gears but can select 3rd and 4th, are you having the same issue JohnR?
Posted: 09:33am 17th July, 2018
John R Subject: Clutch movement
Sorry to take so long to get back to this thread, I haven't had much time to work on the bike. As far as i know, I haven't cured the lateral clutch movement but the bike is running reasonably well; I can change gear OK. To give you a bit of history, the bike has been off the road for about a year and I have just got it MOT'd and back on the road. Before the gap, I had stripped and rebuilt the gearbox with sealed bearings and new layshaft bushes, because the drive side layshaft bush was worn right through to the housing, which did not make for accurate gear shifting! Obviously quite a big job and the first time I had been into the gearbox; I'm definitely an amateur mechanic but not too much of a klutz and I think I did there rebuild OK. Removing the domed cover on the mainsheet bearing last week, I noticed that 1) the left hand thread nut was good and tight, but 2) there was some leakage of oil and grease into the dome and thence into the outer cover, which was then making it to the outside world. this leakage past the sealed bearing worries me a little. Cleaning the jointing surface of the dome and adding a smear of Welseal seems to have contained the leak. It could have been leaking around the clutch pushrod. Talking of the clutch pushrod, it seems in fine condition and operates smoothly. So I am worried about the clutch movement and the very heavy clutch action, which persists even though I have fitted a new cable. I am wondering if I have somehow acquired a very heavy set of springs; they are supposed to be the "three light, three heavy" combination and i am wondering if lighter springs would help. Don't want clutch slip, though!
Posted: 09:32pm 4th August, 2018
ric Subject: Clutch movement
Have you adjusted the threaded clutch adjusting bolt (140330) to sit the clutch arm almost right up against inner side of the outer gearbox cover prior to removing the clutch cable slack for maximum efficiency?
Posted: 07:22pm 5th August, 2018
John R Subject: Clutch movement
Yes, Ric; the problem is not clutch adjustment nor excessive slack. There is plenty of movement and the clutch disengages quire well. The problems are, firstly that it is heavy and secondly that the clutch has this movement towards the primary cover when operated -as I say about 3mm, but shouldn't be any.
Posted: 08:25pm 6th August, 2018
Jamesy Subject: Clutch movement
John r remove the clutch plates and look at the large c clip/ring that retains the clutch basket in position.Check the basket for movement then remove and reseat the c ring.It may be not seated properly.
Posted: 08:33pm 6th August, 2018
DonMc Subject: Clutch movement
I have had problems with a dragging clutch on my 1959 350 Bullet. The problem turned out to be that the two plain dished plates had warped. Easy to check with a straight edge across the face of the plate.
Posted: 03:52pm 7th August, 2018
simon Subject: Clutch movement
They will cup if the clutch overheats which it will do if it doesn't clear. A sort of vicious cycle which is what the bike becomes with a non clearing clutch. I definitely recommend putting the cork lined fiction plates (sold by our hosts) in in replacement for the ferrodo ones. The clutch clears better and takes off much more smoothly. The extra bonus is that they are thinner and so there is consequently more adjustment available. I would also recommend using a tab washer on the cutch centre nut. Ever though they are often nylock they still come loose and a carefully cut sheet metal washer that also goes over one of the spring posts will preventnfurther troubles. I ride my old 350 bullet every day now and the gearbox and clutch are viceless.
Posted: 11:35am 10th August, 2018

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