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Replacing metal fork shrouds

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Replacing metal fork shrouds
Started at 02:00pm on the 11th October, 2018 by Lord-Toady
Lord-Toady Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Hi is it easy to remove these metal fork shrouds and replace them with the rubber type fork gaiters? I am not keen on the way these cover everything up and can't easily be removed so you can't see what's going on also mine seem to have grey grease packed up them which is running down the fork legs and getting all over my exhaust on a long run. I tried undoing one of those chrome bolts before I realised they were all that secures the fork to the bottom yoke. In the catalogue some of the bikes have those metal shrouds, some have rubber gaiters and some have the forks naked so i guess it is personal preference.

Posted: 02:00pm 11th October, 2018
Adrian Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
It's a straight forward enough job, even though gaiters look a bit odd with the casquette headlamp, if we're talking personal preference. Sixty-5 and Electra-X owners may disagree!

To do a neat job you still need a pair of short fork shrouds on the bottom yoke to fit the top of the gaiters onto (our hosts' part no. 801466) as well as the gaiters themselves (go for the large type, part no. 146167) and a couple of ring clamps (146362 & 146363).

. You do have to strip out the front wheel AND the forks. The pinch bolts on the bottom yoke which you mentioned aren't the only things holding the forks in, the tops screw into the casquette casting. To shift these you have to undo the chrome cover plugs and then find a suitable tool to fit the 1/2" female hex hole in the stanchion tops to unscrew them (normal right-hand thread). There is a proper tool to do this, ST25108, though people do improvise with a piece of 1/2" hex bar, which funnily enough is what the main footrest bar is made of.

Once the forks are out simply undo the pinch bolts, remove the long shrouds and replace them with the short ones, re-using the thick O-rings and plastic caps off the long shrouds. Pop the gaiters onto the alloy fork sliders (the grooved end where the clamp fits goes at the top, fit them now), put the forks back into the casquette and screw them back in, slip the tops of the gaiters onto the metal lip of the short shrouds (the inside of the gaiter tops is slotted to match). Loosely refit the pinch bolts, refit the front wheel and brake cable, though don't tighten the axle end cap bolts fully just yet. In case disturbing the forks has affected their alignment grab the front brake and push the bike forward (and down) against the brake a couple of times so that everything re-aligns itself, then tighten up the axle clamp nuts and the pinch bolts in the bottom yoke. Don't to forget to refit the indicators if you have to disturb them too.

Hope this helps.

Posted: 03:31pm 11th October, 2018
Lord-Toady Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Thanks Adrian thats a concise write up there on what needs doing. :)

I am looking at the Road Scramber page 210 of the catalog and it shows the setup with gaiters exactly as you describe with the chrome top parts which for some reason are a bit cheaper than the black ones. That bike has the gaiters and the casquette and I think looks great, the gaiters give it a more off road look.
Posted: 04:14pm 11th October, 2018
Lord-Toady Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Hi Adrian why do you recommend the 146167 gaiters and not the 92504 gaiters are the tighter ones harder to fit? Also those ring clamps if using the bigger ones (146362 & 146363) is that two of each one for the top and one for the bottom?
Posted: 05:07pm 11th October, 2018
Adrian Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
More personal preference, the 146167 gaiters look chunkier, which I think is a bit more what you want, and the tops sit ON the short shrouds rather than tucking under. My own street scrambler (with a separate headlamp) has similar gaiters. Compare pictures of the Electra-X and Sixty-5 and you'll see the difference.

I just had a look at the Electra-X parts book (the 146167s are Electra-X gaiters) and I was wrong, the 146362 & 146363 clips are one each at the bottom, you'll also need a pair of 146313 clips at the top.

Posted: 06:20pm 11th October, 2018
AndyMc Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
The grey grease could be fork oil leaking past the seals.
Posted: 09:05pm 11th October, 2018
Adrian Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Having gaiters fitted will make it easier to check, as Lord-Toady mentioned. Dropping the forks out will at least allow him to investigate.

Posted: 01:09pm 12th October, 2018
PeteF Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
I got the larger diameter gaiters and simple cut the original shrouds shorter. Looks fine.
Posted: 07:26am 14th October, 2018
stinkwheel Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
I was just going to say what Pete just posted, I just did this exact job yesterday (fitting a disc front end, finally just bit the bullet and using a set of later fork legs on which the mudguard mount doesn't allow for shrouds). As he says, you can simply cut down the original shrouds with a hacksaw. There is even a "notch" in them to guide the cut. It takes longer to remove them than to do.

I personally think the shrouds look better but needs must. Next job, fabricate a fork brace/mudguard bracket and decide on super cool-looking late 60's alloy blade mudguard or a dry face/clean engine
Posted: 11:24am 14th October, 2018
Adrian Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Cutting down the full-length shrouds is fine, but the lip at the base of the short shrouds gives extra fixing for the gaiter tops. Not essential, but helpful.

Incidentally you don't have to use the Electra-X type forks with the central mudguard mount for disk brake conversions if you prefer full-length fork shrouds, the shrouded early C5 UCE/EFI forks with the leading axle sliders and external thread on the stanchion tops will fit into earlier threaded casquettes and fork yokes. Choice of mudguard and mudguard stays up to you.

It would be interesting to know if the early C5 sliders would fit or could be modified to fit the traditional Bullet stanchions and damper assembly.

Posted: 08:23pm 14th October, 2018
stinkwheel Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
I got a set of electra sliders pretty cheap... That said, althiugh they seem chunky enough, I'm not entirely convinced how well made they are in terms of dimensions. The slider rod sticks a long way out of the bottom, to the extent that I'm going to need a spacer washer under there so the nut doesn't bottom out on the threads.

In any case, I went for the tighter fitting gaiters which go under the cut-down shrouds. So here's how that looks OP.

I also took the oppertunity to fabricate a fork brace/mudguard bracket. It's not quite finished yet, should look ok once it's painted and fitted with some neat button-head fasteners and a silicone strip between the bracket and the mudguard.

Posted: 09:24pm 14th October, 2018
Lord-Toady Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Do those two chrome bolts that hold the shrouds on and go through and hold the forks need to have any special properties. I have been fettling about trying to fit some Lucas indicators to replace those bullet ones but the bolts on there were too long and hitting the indicators thread. I tried cutting one down but took too much off so got a couple of 8mm hex head bolts from the hardware shop for 40p, cut them down to 60mm and put them on for now and the indicators now fit. I dont like the idea of cut down bolts as a long term solution as they will rust on the ends so will order some 60mm hex head ones. Are stainless ok or should I go zinc plated high tensile? TBH the bolts that were on there didnt look anything special just the same as the hardware shop bolts but with chrome heads. I think my forks are leaking as there is oil all around the top the shrouds and inside the casquette.

Posted: 11:51am 18th October, 2018
stinkwheel Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
I'm not certain the chromed bolts you have there are original anyway. The originals on mine were yellow-passivated, high-tensile flange-bolts.

Personally, I would be using high tensile (grade 8,8) in that application as the fork clamp is a load-bearing part of the chassis. I've used a couple of BZP high tensiles in there on mine. If you were using stainless, I'd be going for high grade (A4 or better) but even then, it's still not as good as proper high tensile steel.
Posted: 06:34pm 18th October, 2018
Lord-Toady Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Thanks Stinkwheel, I think I will order some yellow zinc plated high tensile bolts like you use. I normally always use high tensile bolts on my bikes where the bolts are load bearing like footpeg hangers etc.

In the parts book unless I am mistaken the bolts are PART No. 140580 but they do not look anything special but I think it's better to be safe than sorry!

Posted: 06:50pm 18th October, 2018
stinkwheel Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Ahh. Mine originally had part: 145863 which is both flanged and has a plain shoulder section.

Looking closely at the picture of the part number you quoted though, it appears to be a BZP high tensile bolt and stamped 8,8 on the bolt head. I wonder if your exisitng ones are mild steel or stainless? You could check with a magnet.
Posted: 11:53pm 18th October, 2018
Adrian Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
I'd want a plain shouldered bolt rather than a hex set screw with the thread all the way up. A.
Posted: 01:06pm 19th October, 2018
Lord-Toady Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
I tried a strong magnet on my original chrome bolts and they are stainless. The bolts i have in from the hardware store are marked 4.6 and are galvanised but I am not sure if that mild steel is stronger or weeker than the stainless. I have some high tensile bolts on the way.
Posted: 09:55pm 19th October, 2018
stinkwheel Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
4,6 means it's got a tensile strength of 400MPa and should be tightened to 60% of that to remain in the elastic phase. It's effecticvely a marking indicating it's made of cheese, but cheese that will snap in a reproduceable manner. It's PROBABLY weaker than your stainless (although that can be pretty unpredicatable), but less brittle. I'd be using a minimum of a grade 8,8 bolt in that application or an A4-80 stainless if you insist on it.
Posted: 10:18pm 20th October, 2018
Lord-Toady Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Thanks Stinkwheel I have some 8.8 yellow passivated bolts coming so will swap to those.
Posted: 09:03am 21st October, 2018
Presto Subject: Replacing metal fork shrouds
Now there's knowledge! Can you tell us what ft/lbs torque 60% of 400MPa would be? Thanks
Posted: 11:39am 23rd October, 2018

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