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Staror rotor refitment

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Staror rotor refitment
Started at 10:24am on the 8th January, 2019 by Super45
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Hi Guys in oproces of rebuild the bike after a clutch change and forgot to note which way round the rotor is fitted to the crank shaft on my 2000 350 iron barrel, it looks identical on both sides bar the word 'ignition' written on one side, this is the side if fitted facing outwards, I know I need to ensure equal clearance on all sides on the stator itself but thats fine just want to make sure ive refitted the rotor correctly as currently ive got a dead battery and no spark either Thanks
Posted: 10:24am 8th January, 2019
Mark M Subject: Staror rotor refitment
It sounds as if you have the rotor fitted the right way round. In any case, the 'wrong' way wouldn't make any difference to the alternator function so a lack of charge is a problem somewhere else.

REgards, Mark
Posted: 01:02pm 8th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Thanks Mark Thought that would be the case but wanted to be sure! will double check the clearnace on the stator, charge the battery then go from there
Posted: 03:05pm 8th January, 2019
stinkwheel Subject: Staror rotor refitment
It's important to set the clearance (otherwise it all rubs against the stator) however that is also unlikely to be your problem unless it's rubbed so far through the stator, it's caused a short.
Posted: 03:10pm 8th January, 2019
Norm Subject: Staror rotor refitment
You will never get any spark with a dead battery
Posted: 04:45pm 8th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
refitted and rebuilt annoyinly and doent cath the stator , battery charged and once surface charge had disipated was showing 12.3v so its below par, however it started the bike but the bike is now decided it wants to go back to its old ways and has started overcharging again dont know if this could be down to the duff battery or if the reg/rec has thrown towel in again
Posted: 09:52am 14th January, 2019
papasmurf Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Super45, it is easy to check for overcharging with a multimeter. With the engine running above tick over the charge rate should within the 14V-15V area. If higher the voltage regulator is faulty and or the battery is.) (It needs to be above 13.2 Volts anyway.) As well I suggest fully charging the battery off of the bike, check the voltage straight after charging is should be in the 12.6v-13.2v range. Leave the battery off of the bike and check the voltage 24 hours later, any significant drop means the battery is fubarred.
Posted: 10:07am 14th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Papasmurf, already done, the 12.3v was after being charged for 36 hours and left for 24 hours so enough time for any surface charge to disipate, its showing 15.4v across the terminals at idle, will borrow another multimetre to double check incase this one is picking up interference from the charging system, I've been though all the wires and connectors and all have good continuity, If I replace the rectifier with the lucas one sold by our hosts this will be the third reg/rec in the 18 months ive owned the bike, worth a note all other reg / recs have been swiss branded so dont know if this has an effect on things
Posted: 02:43pm 14th January, 2019
papasmurf Subject: Staror rotor refitment
12.3 volts is low, and 15.4 volts is high.
Posted: 02:59pm 14th January, 2019
Adrian Subject: Staror rotor refitment
"Swiss" in this case is India's answer to W E Wassell. I'd be tempted to try another make indeed, but the possibility that you've fried a Lucas (branded) item AS WELL AS two Indian versions make me wonder if there's an undiscovered and possibly intermittent short circuit "somewhere" (sorry!) killing them long before they would normally fail.

A.
Posted: 06:59pm 14th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Hi Adrian, not fitted a Lucas one yet its in my shopping basket waiting for pay day so far dosent seem to of fried any off the reg/recs, original one fitted was a combined sigle unit swiss one, replaced that with new one the same, no change still overcharging, second one was 2nd hand combined one same issue, third one was new swiss seperate reg and rec boxes wired in series like they used to be on pre '99 bullets and this did drop the volts to high 14's low 15's from the high 15's I'd been seeing on the multimetre, all off them have run stone cold in use which i belive from jap bike experiece isnt right as they dispate charge though heat, all the wires seem to check out for continuity and they receve power from system when running I've thought that myself about a short somewhere, the previous owner fitted a new loom to the bike after replacing the previous burnt out ignition switch and damaged cut off switch where the previous owner to him hot wired the bike so it would run. Not sure where he got the loom from so could be of dubious quality but it is new by state of the wiring, but ive not found any damaged wires so far on my travels when ive had the bike in bits to change the headgasket and fit the replacement mudguard, ive also had the handlebar control switch blocks in bits too due to replacing the handlebars for 50's style ones ones and no sign their either. one thought could the short be in the stator coils or could the coils be overcharging as a fault enough to cook any reg/rec? when I did the clutch, the coils did look dirty ( mainly from old oil in primary ). onl;y other thing I can think is when i refitted the throttle cable yonks ago I must of touched the back of the Ampmeter as I threaded the cable back though the casquet, there was a small spark (ignition was off but obvioulsy must of cross the terminals )but could a short be inside the Ampmetre? it never really shows what you would expect and doesnt deflect much when the points open and when the bike is running last time is flickers in the centre rather than showing posative or negative, it only really acts as it should if you flick the indicators on with the engine off where it flicks into red then back toi centre.
Posted: 09:10am 15th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Only other thing is it does keep blowing the off side pilot light bulb holder looked ok when i changed the bulb though
Posted: 09:15am 15th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Only other thing is it does keep blowing the off side pilot light bulb holder looked ok when i changed the bulb though
Posted: 09:15am 15th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
oh and the main beam light warning light has never worked on it just never got round changing the bulb
Posted: 09:18am 15th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Would the main beam indicator bulb not working and the osf pilor light blowwing be cause of a short ?
Posted: 10:53am 18th January, 2019
Adrian Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Different circuits for the two bulbs, the main beam warning light is taken off the AC feed to the main beam filament (I think these are the blue wires off the Minda l/h switch) and instead of being earthed, what would be the earth wire on any other system is linked to the AC return wire to the alternator it from what would be the earth terminal on the headlamp bulb, the pilot lamps (black and grey) on on the DC side of the electrics.

A batch of bad bulbs could have internal short circuits, otherwise bulbs normally fail through vibration, overloading or age.

A.
Posted: 11:58am 18th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Hi Adrian Thanks for that much appreciated will check the wiring in the casquest again see if all plummed in correclty, may be woerth mentioning that unlpugging the reg/rec and testing the feed from the altenator produced the same readings down the wire as across the battery termianls when the reg/rec is plugged in so all seesm to point to a duff reg/rec but syurely I cant have bought 3 duff ones in a row
Posted: 10:34am 21st January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
New Gel battery has now arrive so I can hopefully rule that issue out the equation with regards to faults
Posted: 09:35am 28th January, 2019
Super45 Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Update Time on this one Solved the pilot bulb issue just a poor lamp seating in the casquete, tunrned the bulb unmit in the casquette and re tightened the screw and all go so no bubls blown yet! The background to the charging problem is the previous owner rewired the bike due to a shorted ignition switch when he got the bike as a project and essentially been hotwired as a bodge to get the bike to run, all switches have been appart and checked no damge from what I can see and function correctly ive been though 3 sets of reg/recs, 2 new combined single box ones and 1 set of second hand ones of the seperate boxes in series (all swiss branded) that are currently fitted, non have failed at all , they just dont seem to work in controling the voltage from the outset, judging from the 15 year old multimetre readings ive been using up till now all continuity tests have been done (Old M-M Used) and passed with next to zero readings and a clear beep from the M-M. There seems to be no hot spots in the wiring and things run as they are supposed to,earth point on the back of the battery carrier is down to the metal and nice and clean. Now the proud owner of a new yellow multimetre and a new shiney motbat battery as the old one was goosed, new battery puts out 12.7 v across the terminals tested with both multimetres. however the rest of the readings the new M-M brought up different results to my 15 year old one.... with the new one: idle produced 14.32V with no lights switch the lights on and you get 13.8v at idle rev the bike up to about 3000 ish ( by ear) and you get 15.4v with lights off and no disarnable change with lights on either (Aware its DC to the head lamp and AC to the battery side ) Old multimetre showed overcharge across the board at all RPM's as per the thread on the MB Forum http://www.midlandbullets.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=9799.msg80703#msg80703 Disconnecting the REG/REG and plugging the M-M into the connector shows the power is getting to the REG/REC's and is giving same readings as if you test across the battery terminals so supply is ok neither the regulator nor rectiifer (seperate boxed currnelty fitted in series) get warm after prolonged 20 minutes ride out and are pretty much stone cold to the touch. the ampmetre on the dash clearly shows the points opening when ignition switched on now with the new battery and needle flicks to the positive side of the guage when it does (that cant be right surely ???), but when running its illegble as it flicks so quickly back and forth from charge to discharge its next to useless. this may be due to re routing throttle cable though the casquete something touched a wire and a small spark was seen, dont know if this has damaged the ampmetre or if it was something else . recent clutch change showed now burn marks on the stator coils that i could see and its a 4 wire stator so thats where we are now, differnt readings either show how cheap the new multimetre is or how fubared the old one was I'm not sure which so I'm a bit stumped Next stage wil be to buy a luca REG/REC from our host and wire that in and if that doest work buy a new loom so I know its been plummed in correctly and all present and correct and if that dosent work a lit match is being dropped in the tank... But before I do could anyone advise on the above new charging readings please? Many Thanks Phil
Posted: 10:31am 22nd February, 2019
vince Subject: Staror rotor refitment
Hi, I dont know if its a typo but surely its dc to battery and ac to headlamp!Vince
Posted: 05:16pm 22nd February, 2019

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